The Role of Economy-Oriented Indigenous Dyeing Knowledge in the Rural Handmade Rug Industry: A Case Study of Dorokhsh and Its Neighboring Villages

Introduction

Carpet weaving in Iran has a long and rich history, with references found in both literary and historical texts. Alongside the emergence of weaving, natural dyeing developed as well, using plant-based dyes like madder, indigo, pomegranate peel, and walnut husk. Traditional dyers relied on local plants and natural substances, and the knowledge of this craft was an integral part of local culture. However, with the introduction of synthetic dyes, these traditional methods began to fade. The region of Qohestan—particularly the village of Dorokhsh  in South Khorasan—was historically a key center of carpet production, as documented in historical records, travelogues, and museum collections. Dorokhsh  produced high-quality carpets featuring unique designs, plant-based dyes, and skilled artisans. However, starting in the late Qajar era, the use of synthetic dyes diminished both the quality and reputation of these carpets. This study aims to explore and document the traditional knowledge of natural dyeing in Dorokhsh.
 

Methodology

This research was conducted in the villages of Dorokhsh, Sarkhang, and Rejnouk in Darmian County, South Khorasan—areas with a strong history of carpet weaving and traditional dyeing. The goal was to identify and document the indigenous knowledge of plant-based dyeing in these regions. This is an applied study using a qualitative, descriptive-analytical approach. Data was collected through both library research and fieldwork. Theoretical information was gathered from Persian and English sources. In the field, semi-structured interviews were used. Key informants were first identified in each village, and further participants were found using snowball sampling. In total, 30 individuals—including dyers, farmers, and elders—were interviewed. Questions focused on dye plants, extraction methods, and traditional uses. The research team also observed and documented the dyeing processes, tools, and methods of harvesting dye plants. Data analysis followed the grounded theory approach, which inductively generates theory from qualitative data. Additionally, three handwoven carpets over 30 years old, dyed with plant-based colors, were examined to identify and record the traditional dye names. The findings revealed that local dyers could produce 26 stable colors, mostly plant-based, significantly enhancing the beauty and quality of the carpets.
 

Findings

In Dorokhsh  and Rejnouk, traditional dyeing relied on local knowledge and natural materials such as tagh leaves, zeme, madder, indigo, walnut husk, soda, sulfide, and cochineal. In Dorokhsh , the remaining master dyers—like Mirza Abolfazl Chamani and Mirza Baqer Zamani—reported learning their craft from the renowned artisan Aziz Mohammad Zahraei. Color preparation involved boiling raw materials in special cauldrons and soaking wool threads (called porzin) in temperature-controlled dye solutions. After dyeing, the yarns were carefully washed and the colors fixed. . In Sarkhong,  For green tones (pistachio, turquoise, olive), a base yellow was first extracted from tagh leaves and zome, then enhanced with indigo and sulfide. Other colors—such as earthy tones, black, pomegranate red, and crimson—were created using specific recipes and materials like madder and walnut husk. In Rejnouk, which is near Dorokhsh , traditional dyeing was practiced alongside carpet weaving. Similar raw materials were used to produce colors like beige, camel, brown, pomegranate, pistachio, gray-blue, indigo, and shades of cochineal red (fiery, crimson). Preparing cochineal dye required precise boiling and careful solution preparation to ensure quality. Soda was commonly used to fix dyes, while sulfide sped up the dyeing process. These traditional methods demanded skill, experience, and attention to temperature. The washing process involved running qanat water and pounding yarn against stones to stabilize and clean the dyes. Sadly, much of this knowledge is on the brink of being forgotten.
 

Discussion and Conclusion

One of the key reasons for the failure of rural development programs has been the neglect of local knowledge and experience. Contrary to the widespread belief that only modern knowledge is effective, this study shows that indigenous knowledge—especially in fields like traditional dyeing—is highly valuable and practical. Traditional dyeing, as a part of the carpet industry, has played an important role in the rural economy of South Khorasan. The research findings indicate that in the studied villages (Dorokhsh , Rejnouk, and Sarkhong), dyeing was based on deep local expertise and the use of accessible, affordable native materials such as walnut husk, tagh leaves, barberry, and rose petals. The use of two dyeing techniques—vat dyeing and fermentation dyeing—reflects the skill and diversity among local artisans. One of the outstanding qualities of these dyes is their colorfastness, which even historical travel writers have praised. Among the villages, Sarkhong made more use of fermentation dyes, while in Dorokhsh  and Rejnouk, these dyes were often sourced from the nearby city of Birjand and were less commonly used locally. Given that the last generation of traditional dyers are now in their 70s and 80s, documenting this valuable knowledge is both urgent and essential. Preserving, sharing, and reviving this indigenous know-how can significantly contribute to sustainable rural development and safeguard a vital part of the country’s cultural heritage.